Beyond Arabica and Robusta: Exploring Coffee’s Third Species
As coffee entrepreneurs, we are constantly searching for the next unique origin, the next innovative processing method, or the next compelling story to share with our customers. For decades, the specialty coffee world has been dominated by two species: Coffea arabica, with its delicate and complex flavors, and Coffea canephora (robusta), known for its hardiness and bold, caffeinated punch.
But what if there was another option? A recent experience with a rare species called Coffea liberica from Vietnam highlights a significant opportunity for entrepreneurs willing to look beyond the familiar. When a sample from Ho Chi Minh City’s 96B roastery was cupped at OZO Coffee Roasters in Boulder, Colorado, it not only surprised seasoned professionals but held its own against high-scoring Arabicas, achieving a score just over 86. This is the story of a forgotten coffee with a very promising future.
A Case Study in Innovation: Reviving Liberica in Vietnam
The journey of Liberica into the specialty market is a masterclass in entrepreneurial vision and persistence, led by Hana Choi and Thai Dang of 96B. Their work provides a valuable roadmap for anyone looking to innovate within the coffee supply chain.
From Obscurity to Opportunity
Hana Choi’s interest in Liberica began with a brief, intriguing description in a book. While the global market focused on Arabica and Vietnam’s commodity market was built on Robusta, she became determined to find this mysterious third species. Her search led her to rural farmers who knew the plant not as a cash crop, but as “jackfruit coffee”—towering trees used for shade or fencing, with their fruit unharvested. Recognizing the untapped potential, Choi convinced the farmers to harvest the cherries for her, marking the beginning of a challenging but rewarding journey.
Investing in Quality from Farm to Roaster
Working with a poorly documented coffee meant starting from scratch. The initial harvests were not good enough to be sold as a single origin. However, Choi and her partner Dang were undeterred. Their success came from a dedicated, multi-year investment in post-harvest processing, including:
- Experimentation: They tested various fermentation times to find the ideal duration for developing Liberica’s unique flavors.
- Infrastructure: They invested in clean water for washing the beans and raised nets for drying, moving away from drying on the ground.
- Patience and Observation: They discovered that, unlike many Arabicas, Liberica’s flavor profile improves with age, both in its green and roasted forms.
These iterative improvements transformed the coffee, allowing 96B to begin selling unblended Liberica in early 2021 and build a reputation around it.
Understanding Liberica: Characteristics and Profile
For traders, roasters, and café owners, understanding Liberica’s unique attributes is key to sourcing and marketing it effectively. It is fundamentally different from what the market is used to.
A Unique Sensory Experience
The cupping at OZO revealed a flavor profile unlike anything else on the table. Professionals identified notes that ranged from “sweet,” “winey,” and “brownie batter” to more unconventional descriptors like “black sesame cookies,” “hoisin sauce,” and even “duck.” My own palate detected strong notes of melon.
Key characteristics noted by the cuppers include:
- Exceptional Sweetness: The coffee scored a perfect 10 out of 10 for sweetness.
- Smooth Body and Low Bitterness: It offers a remarkably smooth mouthfeel with almost no perceived bitterness.
- Lower Caffeine Content: The experience was compared to sipping a complex tea, suggesting a lower caffeine level than Arabica or Robusta.
Best Brewing Applications
While it scores well in a formal cupping, 96B has found that Liberica truly excels in specific applications. Its natural sweetness and bold character shine in milk-based drinks like cappuccinos and hold up exceptionally well in cold brew preparations. This versatility gives café owners multiple ways to introduce it to customers.
The Business Case for Liberica
Beyond its novelty, Liberica presents a compelling strategic opportunity for forward-thinking coffee businesses.
Market Differentiation and Storytelling
In a crowded marketplace, Liberica is a powerful differentiator. It offers a completely new sensory experience for customers, backed by a compelling story of rediscovery and innovation. Businesses that champion this coffee, like 96B, are earning recognition from major publications like The New York Times and attracting the attention of industry leaders like Blue Bottle. Offering the “Liberica Experience”—as 96B does with a flight of espresso and cappuccino—is an excellent way to engage and educate consumers.
Climate Resilience and Future-Proofing Your Supply Chain
Perhaps the most significant argument for Liberica is its resilience. Arabica is a notoriously delicate crop, highly vulnerable to the rising temperatures and droughts caused by climate change. Liberica, in contrast, thrives in warmer, lower-elevation regions. Its deep root system makes it more drought-tolerant than both Arabica and Robusta.
As an export trader, I’ve seen farms where Arabica and Robusta plants have died off due to drought, while the neighboring Liberica trees remained healthy. For entrepreneurs focused on long-term sustainability, sourcing and promoting climate-resilient species like Liberica is not just an option—it’s a necessity. This is a critical step in future-proofing our industry’s supply chain.
